The Gilis - Installment number 2

Bungalow on Gili Meno

So we went snorkelling...and I got horrendously burnt. My back never sees the light of day, and stupidly, I forgot to suncream it along with my shoulders and chest...and what sees the most sun whilst snorkelling? Ugh! It's better today, but I'm hoping the pain is all gone by the time I have to shoulder that bag again and head for Lombok.

Snorkelling was lovely. Unfortunately the camera is only 'water resistant' and so I don't have any piccies of the lovely fish or turtles that we saw, but I have some more envy-inducing pics for you :).

We've now seen Gili Air (the best people so far), Gili Meno (the smallest of the Gilis...rubbish food) and now we're at Gili Tranwagan (the largest...and some cool people so far). In a couple of days I'll be off to Lombok to trek a volcano....whoop. Then Java Java!

Big love to all at home, I'll be seeing you soon xxx

View from Amber House on Gili Meno

View from the restaurant we ate at 10 minutes ago...Gili Trawagan

Gili..........let me count the ways....

Ok......so....Kep was beautiful, it really was. But now I've seen true paradise. I'm on the Gili islands off of Lombok in Indonesia.


My plan (loose as it was), was to go straight to Lombok, though I was having second thoughts after a German girl I met in Denpasar told me about an experience she had at Bangsal harbour with ticket touts...overly enthusiastic and slightly aggressive, but I was convinced otherwise by a lovely dude I met in Padangbai. There are very few tourists around strangely enough and we decided to head to the Gili's together..I'll hit Lombok on the way home. His name is Silver and he's from Estonia.


So yesterday we headed off on the bus, boat, bus and boat trip to Gili Air. It took 9 long long hours to get here, and we finally crossed from Lombok to Gili Air as the sun was setting. We'd met a guy called Sometimes (one suspects he may have taken this name on purely for tourist purposes) at Bangsal and had asked him where was a good place to stay. Of course...he said he'd take us to where he lives....hearts sunk....what will this place be like? But we'd asked him, not the other way round, so we took our chances.

The place has turned out to be beautiful. Beachside huts and a good restaurant and bar, we chilled out last night, and today took a walk around the cost, which ended up taking 4 or 5 hours....but only because we stopped for a beer, then a swim, then lunch...then another beer. Time has no meaning seeing as I left my watch in Bali by accident and Silver doesn't have one!!

Tomorrow is time for snorkelling, and the day after we're off to Gili Meno.

People...if there's one place you have to visit in your lifetimes...make it this. Just watch out for the coral beaches.....OUCH!!!

A crabby hermit crab I met on the beach

Bali Bali

I'm kicking myself for not bringing my photo DVD here....after not finding on in Siem Reap I hardly expected to wander into a cafe that could read DVD's here, and yet here I am. It's an interesting place, I'm sat in a little private cubicle....on the floor. There are some cushions. There are Bob Marley posters on the wall and something that sounds similar to Linkin Park is playing. There's quite a big alternative rock scene here.

I'm in Denpasar, Bali's capital city....a million miles (or maybe not really) from the tourist areas. To be honest it's a good break, Siem Reap was a little crazy so it was. A couple of low/no alcohol days is probably what my body needs.

It was a long day yesterday with my journey here from Siem Reap. Roger and I were on the same flight out to KL and so we said goodbye at the airport when we arrived, he's off to India. I waited in the airport for what felt like forever with the excessive AC almost freezing me to death, and then I went to board my flight to Bali. As the lady checked my ticket she said something to me that I didn't hear, when I asked her again she said 'you pregnant, or not pregnant'. I stood for a second wondering whether I should respond with 'I hope you ask ALL the women that!' then said no, threw an embarrassed look at the guy behind me and carried on.

I know I've put on a couple of pounds in the last week or so, almost entirely in beer, but really? Sob..... Maybe I should have said yes, I might have got priority boarding. Us large people don't like being on our feet too long after all.

The second flight was lovely, I had a row to myself, and in the adjacent row was the most gorgeous baby ever, blesser little cotton socks. I didn't even mind it when she squealed and cried.

My plan for tomorrow is to get to Padangbai and the ferry to Lombok, although I spoke to a girl today who had a rough time with some touts in Lombok, so I may find myself visiting a tourist office and paying a little extra to avoid the notorious hassles at the harbour where you leave for the Gili Islands. I'll see if I can get back here later and put some pics up :)

Love to all at home xxxx

Gah!!

More disappointment :o(

Apparently Cambodians love to put your pictures onto DVD....despite the fact that the net café computers don't have DVD readers.

However, what I would love to say is hello to my family :o). I phoned home on mums birthday and managed to speak to everyone which was great. I said at the time, it's really strange, but for the first time in my life I can hear their accents. Having met so many people with so many different accents, it kind of fine-tunes you to them. Very odd indeed.

I also want to say hi to nanny, who I know has been following my blog through Dad. I'm glad you're enjoying it nan, I'll come and show you all my pictures when I get home, I love you and hope you're doing good :D.

Lots of love to all of you and see you soon....time sure does fly out here.

Big hugs and kisses,

B xxxxx

New Blog Later!

Still having photo problems! I found a Kodak place, but the guy says his son is at English class...come back in an hour, and so I shall!

Photo montage of the beautiful Cambodia up and coming :o)

So Much to Tell...So Little Time

**note - I've just realised that my memory card has frigged up again...so there'll be no pics on this one until I get it sorted out....the curse of SE Asian internet cafés!!**

There's been some frenetic travelling recently. Since I last wrote I've spent 2 evenings eating crab in Kep, bussed to Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia and spent 2 nights there, then bussed onwards again to Siem Reap, home of Angkor Wat, I've been here one night.

I've been travelling with a guy called Roger whom I met in Kep. He's been travelling for 2 years already and is heading back to India after he leaves Siem Reap. I'd put a pic up, but I only have one and he looks ever so slightly odd. I'll save him the embarrassment. I was quite grateful for his company as a local guy called Denny had taken a shine to me and took me for a moto ride around Kep National Park (at this point I thought he was a moto driver). I had to meet Roger for food at 6pm and made sure Denny knew this! A lovely dinner was had that evening, the dinner I've been waiting for, crab fried with Kampot pepper. Highly messy, but highly delicious....nom nom nom. Thank you Violet Dear.

Next we hit Phnom Penh. I'd heard that it was a bit of a dive...not much to do apart from the obvious, S21 and the Killing Fields. I won't write too much about it here as the whole thing deserves a blog post of it's own which will come up soon, but for a little bit of background...

In April 1975 The Khmer Rouge took power in Cambodia after a long civil war, at first the people were happy at the end of the war and welcomed the soldiers into the cities. It soon turned nasty, Pol Pot and his guys were determined to turn Cambodia back into an agrarian society, and sent everyone to work in the rice fields. Anyone with an education, anyone who could speak French, monks, and even those who wore glasses were considered imperialists and were systematically executed. The regime got worse and worse through the late seventies, S21 (or Tuol Sleng) is an old highschool that the regime turned into a centre where people were brought to be detained, interrogated and tortured. Poeple were then sent from S21 to be executed at the Killing Fields, a location around 5km outside of Phnom Penh.

It's thought that at least 2 million Cambodians were either starved to death or executed during the 4 years that the Khmer Rouge were in power. Seeing S21 and the killing fields was pretty harrowing, but I'll leave it for another post.

After Phnom Penh we headed for Siem Reap, I wasn't sure what to expect, but people had told me that they love it.

I LOVE it!

After being here for even less than 24 hours...I can see why people might see Phnom Penh as a bit of a dive compared to this. I visited the places the right way round! Everything is here. You can get a fish foot massage almost anywhere on the street. You see people perched on the edge of inflatable swimming pools with fishies nibbling their feet. They have some incredible covered market places, so many restaurants and bars. And of course, the jewel in Cambodia cultural crown...Angkor Wat. I'm planning on visiting the temples tomorrow, I'll probably get a 3 day pass and so I should have some awesome pictures to show you over the next few days.

I'll get my card sorted out today and hopefully have some pictures for you very soon.

Love love lovers xxx

Have you ever viewed.....paradise?

Wow, I mean....wow. Kep, you amaze me.

I think today it suddenly hit me that I'm travelling. Last night I had a moment whilst I was wandering back to Sheim and Sohan with yet more beer when I thought 'I'm in Cambodia....CAMBODIA!' Today I had another one of those moments.

The bus trip to Kep started out pretty well, there were plenty of people on my minibus, 'Huzzah! I won't be alone' I thought. Then the bus stopped outside a hotel in Kampot and everyone got off.....except me.

I sat there for a while waiting for the bus to leave again, and then one of the guys from the company climbed on and said:

'Everyone else stay in Kampot, you're the only one going to Kep, is ok if you go by moto?'

For those of you unfamiliar with a moto, it's a scooter/motorbike.

After all my questions....

'How long?' - 30 mins

'How much?' - We pay

'Will I die?' - eeeeeeh...probably not

....I grudgingly agreed. So I slapped on some sunscreen and hopped on the back of the moto. What I was mainly worried about was lugging my big bag on my back and feeling like I'd topple backwards the whole way. But the driver tucked it down between his feet, so that was a relief.

At first I was a bit nervous, but whilst we were driving through the town he chatted a bit which calmed me down. I had to keep reminding myself that these guys live and breathe motos, and there was very little traffic so all went well.

Until we hit something :(

Mr Moto just kept on going, didn't bat an eyelid. From the horrible howling left in our wake I can only assume it was a dog. That's possibly one of the most horrible things I've ever experienced and I was in a bit of shock for a while afterwards....*shudder*.

So we carried on, my arse getting a bit numb by now, and all of a sudden the heavens opened. Mr Moto tells me we're going to turn in and shelter for a few minutes. Ok, I think, but where?...all I can see is a few little wooden huts with naked toddlers and gurning grannies outside. Sure enough....

We stopped outside a little hut and inside there was a family. Mum, dad, another older lady (auntie?), 3 kids under the age of 8 and dear old granny, who almost wet herself chuckling when I performed a most ungraceful moto dismount. Mum was busy mending a fishing net, and dad was whittling. I gave them all a big smile (such is the extent of my Cambodian) and took a perch on a little wooden bench. They all just stared and laughed at me for a few minutes whilst we sheltered from the rain.

Eventually we left again, and dear old granny made her way outside, presumably to see whether my moto-mounting technique was any better than the dismount.

One significant thing I noticed was the distinct lack of westerners. Until 2 french people walked in this net cafe just now, I saw absolutely no western faces whatsoever. Plenty of Cambodian tourists though, it's the kings birthday today and so this weekend has been a long one for Cambodia, they've all scooted off on their holidays.

Moto riding in the rain and no tourists...wow....I'm backpacking!

Ten more minutes and I could see the sea. Kep is so lush and green and gorgeous, I couldn't help but smile as we pulled in. Of course, I didn't know any hotel names, so Mr Moto took me to his friends place. It's pretty nice, I have no complaints thus far, AC and a fan...telly. What else could a girl ask for? An English programme sure...but I had terrible fun watching a Thai soap opera (with Khmer subtitles).

Once I checked in I just laid under the AC for a while, and then summoned up the enthusiasm to make a move for the beach and explore a bit. Not knowing where I am, I didn't get too far, but tomorrow I'll make a plan with a map, and, if need be, a friendly moto. Tonight I'm planning on finding a close restaurant, indulging in seafood and a couple of beers, and an early night!

I didn't take any pics on the motorbike you'll be glad to know, but I've dotted a couple of Kep shots in for you :) More tomorrow hopefully :D xxx


Cheeky monkeys raiding bins! It could be Africa! Or the zoo...

Welcome to Cambodia....

Sheim and I left the rest of the crowd in Saigon and headed to Sihanoukville in Cambodia. It's a bit of a divergence from my original plan, which was to go straight Kep in the south, but I couldn't find enough information about how reliable the border crossing was, so I decided to play it safe. Onto Kep by bus tomorrow.

We arrived in Cambodia with some trepidation, as the was setting, an incredible storm set in. The lightning was scaring some people on the bus, and many of the locals moved into the aisle to see where we were going....which worried me somewhat!

The people and the place soon changed my mind.

We met a guy called Sohan from the US as we got off the bus and we shared a tuk tuk (cheapy cheapersons) to the backpacker district, so we're knocking around with him for a few days now.

Day 1 (yesterday) we decided to go to the beach, seeing as Sihanoukville is essentially a beach resort, I don't think there's much else to do here.

As soon as you step foot onto the beach, you're overrun with a hoarde of ladies and children selling massages, pedicures, manicures, threading, bracelets, scarves, sarongs, fruit, crab, lobster, sunglasses....the list goes on.

It's pretty annoying, but I've been finding the children absolutely hilarious, and have fallen prey to may of the hawkers already. Their english is amazing, which I didn't expect! Here's some snippets of conversations I've had:

"I don't want a bracelet thank you.

Why?

I just don't want one.

You don't want one? Then buy two!"

"Why you not buy from me and you buy from her? I asked you first (lie). You're a very naughty girl, you see what happens when you don't buy from me!" more about this particular kid in a minute.

"Open your heart, open your wallet"

They're fabulous.

On the beach today I decided that I'd quite like a bracelet from the 'angry boy' as I dubbed him, with his name on it. They sit there and braid them for you on the spot. I wanted a memento of him. I'd seen him wandering past a couple of times shooting icy looks at me, so I knew he was around. I finally spotted him and beckoned for him to come over....I actually think he would have ignored me had his friend not shouted at him to come....lose a sale through pride...hell no!

He looked incredibly inconvenienced as he wandered slowly over to me, and even more so when we quibbled over price, I wanted to pay $2, he wanted $3, no remarks over being a cheapskate please, haggling is standard!! But all of a sudden he looked over his shoulder, and like a bolt of lightning, he was gone. I looked in the direction he'd glanced and saw a stern looking man holding a stick walking in our general direction. Alost all the hawkers had disappeared...the ones that remained looked mighty nervous.

We found out later that he was a policeman patrolling the beach. They don't like the hawkers harrassing the tourists, and will even go to the extent of walloping them with the stick. No wonder the kids were terrified.

Eventually angry boy came back....with protection, a tenacious little girl who had sold me some bracelets the day before, she was quite the cheeky little madam, we were in good company. I Asked him his name and he told me it was Pon, so I asked him to braid that one the bracelet. I picked my colours and he disappeared off to do the bracelet...eager not to be caught with us by the policeman.

Time passed and I wondered if he was ever coming back, then I spotted them walking down the beach towards us. Of course, the time to pay was upon me:

"Two dollars.

Three!!

Two!

Three!!

Oh bloody hell, ok then"

It was worth it for the beaming smile and hug that I got afterwards. I paid a dollar for that hug.

I also met a lovely lady doing manicures and pedicures...so I got a pedicure yesterday and a manicure today. I've never felt more girly in my life. Her name was Sun.

I hope the people in Kep are as interesting, the people are making this country for me so far :)

Photographic Fail!

You might be wondering why I've been offline for so long...

Firstly...the internet is shite here in Hoi An, but most importantly, one of these stinking computers wiped my memory card. So I think I've lost almost all my photos from Vietnam. Shitehouses :(

I still have plenty of journeying to do though, so more pictures shall come, it's disappointing, but one mustn't rely on piccies, it's the experience that counts...and I've learned to back up more often.

I have a bloggage all ready to go, I just need to take (more) pictures of my fellow travelmates. Hopefully be back online soon, Saigon should be better internetwise than Hoi An.

Sleeper bus tonight...huzzah :D

B xx

I'm Back!

Sorry about that brief interlude, the places I'm travelling through in Vietnam haven't really cottoned onto the net cafe culture yet....but I've found one! Huzzah!

Since I left you I've been travelling South through Vietnam, an overnight sleeper train to Hue from Hanoi was fun, we met 2 great guys who happened to be in our cabin, Erik from Sweden and Ben from Derby. It happened to be a Swedish holiday that night and since we're travelling with Sheima (Swedish also) and Erik, we thought beers would be a good idea. Every time the lady with the trolley came past we ordered 5 beers (I'm pretty sure she stopped by our cabin more than was strictly necessary).

Then the last beer run came....and we had a sad :(. That was until a knock came on the door and there was the trolley lady, with a plastic bag containing 5 cans of beer. You have to laugh.

Hue was lovely, we spent 2 nights and visited the Citadel. Hue is the old imperial capital of Vietnam, and the citadel was the home and seat of government for the last emperor of the Nguyen dynasty. It was badly damaged by US bombing during the Vietnam war..but still retains much of its grandeur.

Now in Hoi An, having travelled by very plush sleeper bus, I hope the long-ass journey from Hoi An to Saigon will be as comfortable. Hoi An is absolutely beautiful, as many of you may know, it's also the best place to come for cheap made-to-order clothing. In fact, in an hour I'll be picking up 2 pairs of trousers and a shirt that I was measured up for yesterday. About 12 quid each for the trousers and 13 or 14 for the shirt. I'll let you know how I get on with that.

Hoi An captures you, it reminds me of a slightly busier (and drier) Luang Prabang. The cafes and restaurants by the river are gorgeous, and most serve 'fresh beer' which is essentially home-made beer that costs roughly 15p a glass. It's not very strong, but it does the job. Last night I had a lovely meal, probably the most expensive I've had in Vietnam (or anywhere), costing a whole 4 pounds. This was for 2 GIANT prawns that I went over and handpicked from a bucket. I named them Bob and Dave...they were delicious.

I was considering stopping in another place, Dalat or Na Trang on the way down, but I may just stay and chill here for a couple more days and then go straight to Saigon, then swiftly onto Cambodia.

Enough from me, to finish up this one, I thought I'd introduce you to some of the guys I'm travelling with at the moment:

Pat:

Pat's from Tasmania, though I believe he was born in Victoria. He has an amazing talent of being able to cry on cue (or at least 1-2 minutes after cue) and can retain the lyrics to any and every song ever played to him. Sheima introduced me to Pat on my second to last day in Hanoi.

Sheima:

Swedish, but her mother is Polish and father is Iraqi. She's a champion snake kisser...don't believe me? Add her on Facebook and check out the photo evidence :D. We met in Hanoi after I'd been wandering for 3 hours.

Ben:

From Derby, die hard Rams fan and an excellently English sarcastic sense of humour. He's still mourning the loss of his ipod, don't mention it to him, he may have to shed a tear. We met on the night train from Hanoi to Hue.

Erik:

From Sweden, has been afforded the unfortunate nickname 'White Supremacist' due to his eagle tattoo, despite having studied human rights (or something like that). Rumours abound that he enjoys shagging animals...I can't imagine where that came from....

We also met in the night train.

Emma:

Is from New Zealand, we love listening to her vowels, the kiwi accent is muchly fun :D. Would we take the mick? NEVER!! She loves dancing and singing along to ANY music you put on, a great laugh! We met her in Hue on our first night.

As is the way with backpacking, we'll be losing Emma tonight, and Pat possibly tomorrow. I think Erik and Ben are hanging on for a while, and a guy called Chris that we met in Hanoi will probably be joining us soon. Also, we're meeting Steph (who I met in Luang Prabang) tonight at one of the only bars in town.....mad.

Hopefully it won't be quite as long between this and my next update, I'm sure Saigon will be pretty good interwebs-wise :D

** Update**

This was written before my photo disaster and so is bit old! I'm in Saigon now, and Pat, Ben and Erik are arriving tomorrow...a wee reunion of a sort...though we saw them all 2 days ago...